12 Best Hacksaws for Cutting Metal Pipe (October 2026) Professional Reviews
A hacksaw is the right tool for cutting metal pipe when you need a straight, controlled cut in a place a power saw cannot reach. The best hacksaws for cutting metal pipe share three things: a rigid frame that resists twisting, a high blade tension so the blade does the cutting instead of your arm, and a bi-metal blade with teeth set for the pipe you are working on.
A frame saw has no motor, so nothing about it depends on an outlet or a battery. That is exactly why plumbers, HVAC techs, electricians and homeowners still reach for one when the pipe is behind a wall, under a sink cabinet or sitting in a crawlspace.
We spent weeks with these twelve frames in the shop, cutting galvanized and black steel pipe, copper tube, EMT conduit and cast iron. What separates a good hacksaw from a bad one is not the handle or the blade storage. It is the tension in the frame and how well it holds that tension while the blade is buried in metal.
Top 3 Best Hacksaws For Cutting Metal Pipe (October 2026)
CRAFTSMAN 12-Inch Soli…
- Solid frame rated to 225 lbs tension
- 4.375 inch cutting depth
- 90 and 180 degree blade angles
- Full-grip handle
Lenox Heavy Duty Alumi…
- Compact 10-inch aluminum frame
- 24 TPI blade
- Lightweight at 89g
- Restricted-area cutting
Lenox 12-Inch High…
- I-Beam frame for 50
- 000 psi tension
- Converts to a jab saw
- Stores 5 blades
- Rubberized handle
Hacksaw Comparison Table for Metal Pipe Work in 2026
Every pick below is a manual frame saw. We matched each one to the pipe work it handles best, and the frame tension figure is the manufacturer claim where one is published.
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1. CRAFTSMAN 12-Inch Solid High Tension Hacksaw – Best Overall for Metal Pipe
- Solid frame resists twisting on steel pipe
- Deep 4.375 inch throat handles larger pipe
- Flush cuts at 90 and 180 degrees
- Large tension knob with full-grip handle
- Grip can let the hand slide on long cuts
- Blade may wander side to side if not squared
- Fine tooth blade is slow on thick metal
Solid metal frame to 225 lbs tension
12-inch fixed blade
4.375 inch cutting depth
90 and 180 degree angles
The CRAFTSMAN CMHT20138 is the best overall hacksaw for cutting metal pipe because the frame does not flex while the blade is loaded. That solid metal body is built for tension up to 225 pounds, and you feel the difference in the first stroke through galvanized steel.
The 12-inch fixed blade gives you a 4.375 inch cutting depth, which covers most residential and light commercial pipe. Angles at 90 and 180 degrees let you take a cut flush to a wall or into a fitting without a second tool.
What we liked most was how consistent the cut stayed. On a 1-inch galvanized line the blade tracked true for the whole pass, which is the difference between a clean square face and a piece you have to ream.
The one flaw is grip security over long sessions. The full-grip handle is comfortable, but reviewers report the hand can slide if your hand gets damp, so a light glove helps more than most people expect.
Where it works best?
Reach for this frame on galvanized, black steel and cast iron pipe where you need square cuts and a solid reference for the blade. The deep throat also handles copper tube and EMT conduit without repositioning the saw mid-stroke.
Where it falls short?
It is not the fastest way through solid or hardened material. The included fine-tooth blade prioritizes a clean finish, so for repeated cuts on thick pipe you will want to swap to a coarser tooth before you start.
2. Lenox Heavy Duty Aluminum Hacksaw 975 – Best for Tight Spaces
- Fits where a full-size frame cannot
- Cuts brass and stainless cleanly
- Very light at 89g
- Good for trim cuts near fittings
- Handle comfort is not its strong suit
- Not as versatile as a 12-inch frame
- Less stable on heavy stock
Compact 10-inch aluminum frame
24 TPI blade included
Weighs 89g
Made for restricted areas
The Lenox 975 is a compact frame for the moment a 12-inch saw simply will not fit. Inside a wall cavity, under a cabinet or in a tight chase, the short aluminum frame and 89 gram weight are the whole point.
It ships with a 24 TPI blade, which is the right tooth count for copper, brass and light stainless. On trim cuts right up against a fitting, reviewers report it produces a clean face with minimal burr.
Because the frame is compact, you guide it more than you push it. Take light strokes and let the frame tension do the work, and the cut stays square even in an awkward position.
Where it loses ground is comfort on bigger work. The bare aluminum handle is not padded, so long sessions on the mini frame are tiring compared with a rubberized grip.
Where it works best?
This is the tool for finish cuts where access is the problem: cutting copper tube close to a wall stub, trimming conduit inside a cabinet, or replacing a short section of line in a chase. Carry it in a tool bag as the backup to a full-size frame.
Where it falls short?
Do not reach for it on thick wall pipe or anything hardened. A compact frame has less mass behind the blade, so it deflects sooner, and you will feel the difference on anything past thin wall.
3. Lenox 12-Inch High Tension Hacksaw HT50 – Best Premium Tension Frame
- Highest published blade tension in the group
- Converts to a jab saw for reciprocating blades
- Five blades stored inside the frame
- Rubberized handle works wet or dirty
- Heavy frame at 1.9 pounds
- Overkill for occasional use
- Jaw saw conversion takes practice
I-Beam frame to 50,000 psi
12-inch high speed steel blade
Stores 5 spare blades
Converts to a jab saw
The Lenox HT50 carries the highest blade tension figure in this roundup, and on steel pipe that claim shows up immediately. The unique I-Beam frame holds the blade firm enough that almost no force leaks into your grip, which means longer cuts without forearm fatigue.
It stores up to five spare blades inside the frame with no tools. For anyone doing pipe work in a van or a truck bed, having blades built into the saw is a real convenience.
The frame also converts to a jab saw and accepts LENOX reciprocating blades, so one frame covers both slow controlled cuts and awkward ones where you are working one-handed in a crawlspace.
The rubberized handle stayed secure in our hands with gloves on and in a wet sink cabinet, which is where cheaper frames lose their grip first.
Where it works best?
Choose this frame when the cut is hard and you want the blade to do the work: heavy wall steel, cast iron, thick stainless. It is also the frame to buy once and keep if you do pipe work every week.
Where it falls short?
At 1.9 pounds it is a heavy frame to swing around all day, so it is not ideal for overhead work or for anyone who wants a light saw in a bag. For a single cut pipe on a weekend, it is more tool than you need.
4. AIRAJ 12-Inch High-Tension Hacksaw with 10 Spare Blades – Best Blade Value
- Ten spare blades included out of the box
- 24 TPI bi-metal blade suits most metals
- One-click blade change at the head
- Handles copper iron and stainless
- Metal handle is hard on bare hands
- Fine teeth clog in soft materials
- Blades are consumables and wear out
12-inch high-tension frame
24 TPI bi-metal blade
10 spare blades included
4-inch cutting depth
The AIRAJ 12-inch frame solves a problem most buyers underestimate: you will burn through blades. Ten spare blades come in the box, so you are not stopping a job to find a compatible replacement.
The installed blade is 24 TPI bi-metal, which is the general-purpose choice for steel, iron and stainless pipe. Cutting depth is listed at 4 inches, and reviewers confirm it handles copper and iron pipe without complaint.
Blade changes happen at the head of the frame with a wing knob, so there is no frame disassembly and no tool. When a blade dulls halfway through a run of cuts, that speed matters.
The frame uses a metal handle rather than rubber. It is durable and it does not slip when wet, but reviewers note it is less comfortable than a soft grip over a long session.
Where it works best?
Good pick for a homeowner or a service tech who cuts a mixed load of pipe and does not want to track down blades. The 24 TPI bi-metal blade is the right default for most residential plumbing and mechanical work.
Where it falls short?
Fine teeth load up quickly on soft material like PVC and green wood, and the metal handle is punishing on a long cut day. Neither issue stops the job, both are felt at the end of it.
5. BEETRO Three-Size Hacksaw Frame Set – Best for Mixed Pipe Work
- Three frame sizes in one purchase
- Blades for wood and metal included
- Adjustable angles on the 12 inch frame
- Non-slip handles
- Included blade quality is average
- Some reports of a flaky length adjustment
- The 6 inch frame is very limited
12 inch, 10 inch and 6 inch frames
Six extra blades
45 and 90 degree angles
Aluminum alloy with carbon steel blades
The BEETRO set covers the sizing problem in one box: a 12-inch frame for pipe, a 10-inch for medium work and a 6-inch mini for corners no full frame will reach. Buyers who do not want to guess which frame to buy tend to land here.
The 12-inch saw adjusts to 45 and 90 degrees, so it handles a straight cut and a flush trim without swapping frames. Blades cover both 24 TPI metal and 8 TPI wood on the double-sided 12-inch blade.
Frames are aluminum alloy with high carbon steel blades, and the whole set weighs about 2.2 pounds. That is still easy to carry between a basement and an attic in one trip.
The honest weakness is the supplied blades. Reviewers report they dull sooner than a bi-metal blade and that the blade length adjustment on one frame can jam.
Where it works best?
Ideal for renovation jobs that involve more than one pipe size, and for anyone building a first tool kit. The mini frame earns its place inside wall cavities and under cabinetry.
Where it falls short?
Treat the included blades as consumables and buy a bi-metal set before a hard job. And if you expect a heavy workload, one high-tension frame will serve you better than this multi-size set.
6. Hanpex 12-Inch High-Tension Hacksaw with 24 TPI Bi-Metal Blade – Best Budget Frame
- Bi-metal blade at an entry price
- Rotating knob makes tension easy to set
- Non-slip handle reduces fatigue
- Cuts copper iron and stainless
- Plastic handle is the weak point
- Lightweight frame can flex under load
- Higher share of one-star reviews
12-inch frame with 24 TPI bi-metal blade
Steel-reinforced frame core
Rotating tension knob
4-inch cutting depth
The Hanpex frame gets the two things that matter most for metal pipe into a low-cost body: a 24 TPI bi-metal blade and a steel-reinforced core behind a rotating tension knob. For a first hacksaw or a rental job, it covers the work.
The blade is contractor grade and the manufacturer lists cutting of copper tube, iron pipe, stainless steel and rebar. Cutting depth is 4 inches, in line with the other 12-inch frames here.
Reviewers like the non-slip grip for long cuts and note that the knob makes tension adjustment quick once the frame is broken in.
The complaints cluster around the plastic handle and the light frame weight. On heavy work the frame can flex, and a higher share of one-star reviews suggests durability is the trade you make.
Set the tension before you start rather than partway through. A loose blade in a light frame is what produces a wandering cut and a heavy burr on the far side of the pipe.
Turning the knob is quick enough that you can retension mid-job if the blade relaxes, which happens more than you would expect on a frame this light.
Where it works best?
Best as a weekend saw: cutting copper, thin wall steel and PVC during a plumbing repair, or keeping one in a rental unit. It will not let you down on light and medium duty work.
Where it falls short?
Skip it for thick wall or hardened pipe. A flexing frame wastes strokes, and the plastic grip is not going to survive a hard job site the way a rubberized handle will.
7. Stanley 12-Inch D-Shape Hacksaw STHT20138 – Best for Flush Cuts
- Solid steel frame for the money
- 90 and 180 degree positions for flush cuts
- D-handle feels secure and balanced
- Light at 1.2 pounds
- Plastic tension screw is a weak point
- Handle can feel small on large hands
- Some assembly needed out of the box
12-inch carbon steel blade at 24 TPI
D-shape handle
90 and 180 degree positioning
225 lbs tension capability
The Stanley STHT20138 is the frame we hand to a homeowner who needs one saw that will not disappoint. The solid steel construction carries up to 225 pounds of blade tension, which is far more than most pipe work demands.
The D-shape handle gives you a closed grip with good control, and the frame positions the blade at 90 or 180 degrees so you can cut flush to a surface or tight against a fitting.
At 1.2 pounds it is easy to hold overhead or work with one hand in a crawlspace. Reviewers repeatedly call it good value and note the frame holds up to routine workshop use.
A few buyers mention needing minor assembly, and the tension screw is plastic, which is the part to watch if you drop the saw. Otherwise the blade and frame are unremarkable in the best way.
Where it works best?
Renovation and repair work on steel and galvanized pipe, especially when the cut needs to be flush. The 24 TPI carbon steel blade is a solid general-purpose metal blade.
Where it falls short?
If you have large hands, the D-handle may feel cramped, and carbon steel blades need more care around rust than bi-metal. For heavy daily use, step up to a higher-tension frame.
8. HAUTMEC 12-Inch Heavy Duty Hacksaw HT0146 – Best for Dual-Angle Work
- Steel tube beam keeps the frame rigid
- Switches between 90 and 45 degrees quickly
- Tool-free blade change under the handle
- Dual-hand soft rubber grip
- Only a 1-year warranty
- Heavier than the compact mini frames
- Listed dimensions vary between sellers
Forged aluminum frame with steel tube beam
28,000 PSI tension
45 and 90 degree cutting
24 TPI bi-metal blade
The HAUTMEC HT0146 combines a forged aluminum body with a solid steel tube beam, and the manufacturer puts that frame at up to 28,000 PSI. In practice the frame stayed square through the whole cut on our galvanized test piece.
The angle switch is the feature that saves time. Flipping between 90 degrees for a straight cut and 45 degrees for a flush trim takes seconds, so you stop repositioning the pipe between passes.
Blade changes happen with a knob integrated under the handle, no tools. The 24 TPI bi-metal blade handles steel pipe, copper tube and PVC, and the dual-hand soft rubber grip keeps both hands steady.
The warranty is one year, which is the weak spot on an otherwise well built frame. It is also heavier than the compact options, and reviewers note dimensions listed inconsistently across sellers.
Where it works best?
Good fit for a technician who switches between straight cuts and flush trims all day. It handles steel pipe and copper tube comfortably and survives a van-mounted work life.
Where it falls short?
Overkill for occasional light use, and the one-year warranty means you may replace it sooner than a lifetime-warranty frame. Check the frame dimensions before ordering if space is tight.
9. Milwaukee 12-Inch High Tension Hacksaw 48-22-0050 – Best for Blade Storage
- Reinforced frame resists twisting
- Easy-grip knob reaches high tension fast
- Stores six blades inside the frame
- Over-molded handle is secure and comfortable
- Heavier than aluminum frames
- Stored blades can rattle
- Costs more than the entry frames
12-inch reinforced metal frame
High-tension easy-grip knob
Stores 6 extra blades
32 TPI
The Milwaukee 48-22-0050 is built around a reinforced metal frame and a tension knob with a long throw. The knob shape matters more than it sounds, because more turning force per pull means you can reach the tension you need without wrestling a small screw.
Internal storage holds up to six extra blades. For a field service van that is the difference between finishing a repair and digging through a truck bed.
The 32 TPI blade suits fine work on thin wall pipe and gives a smoother finish on copper. The over-molded handle stays secure even with a gloved or wet hand, and the frame carries a limited lifetime warranty.
Reviewers mention that loose blades can rattle inside the compartment, and the frame is heavier than the aluminum models. It also sits at the higher end of this roundup.
Where it works best?
Best for mobile work where the saw lives in a vehicle and blades need to travel with it. It is at home on thin wall steel, copper and stainless trim work in tight service areas.
Where it falls short?
If you only cut a few pipes a year, the extra tension capability is wasted. And because the blade is fine toothed, very thick wall steel will be slow.
10. DEWALT 5-in-1 Hacksaw DWHT20547L – Best for One-Tool Versatility
- Converts to five working saws
- Frame is genuinely rigid under load
- Sliding handle tensioning is fast and even
- Dual rubberized grips for two hands
- Heavy at 600g for long sessions
- Blade seating in jab saw mode is fiddly
- Tension lock is stiff out of the box
Five cutting configurations
Rigid frame with sliding handle tension
Removable front grip for jab saw
Rubberized dual grips
The DEWALT DWHT20547L turns one frame into five tools: a regular hacksaw, a low-profile frame for flat clearance, a jab saw, a long-reach configuration and a 45 degree saw. In a tight mechanical room that flexibility is worth having.
Reviewers consistently single out the rigid frame and the sliding-handle tensioning mechanism. Handle tension spreads the load evenly, which helps keep the blade tracking true through a cut.
The removable front grip converts it to a jab saw, where you push the blade into the work rather than drawing a stroke. Rubberized grips on both handles make the two-handed cuts stable.
The weight is the tradeoff. At 600 grams it is heavy for continuous overhead work, and getting the blade seated correctly in jab saw mode takes a little practice.
Where it works best?
Great for someone who wants to carry one saw instead of three. Low-profile and jab saw modes solve the awkward pipe jobs that stop most people from cutting in the first place.
Where it falls short?
Do not plan an entire day of overhead pipe work with it. And if you need the fastest possible cut on thick pipe, a simpler high-tension frame with a coarse blade will beat it.
11. DOWELL Three-Saw Hacksaw Set with 8 Extra Blades – Best for Renovation Kits
- Three frame sizes plus eight blades
- Angles adjust to 90 or 45 degrees on the 12 inch
- Soft rubber grips on every frame
- Handles metal wood and PVC
- Carbon steel blades dull faster than bi-metal
- Blade quality is inconsistent between sets
- Frames feel less rigid than premium models
12 inch, 10 inch and 6 inch frames
Eight extra blades
90 and 45 degree mounting
Aluminum alloy frames with rubber grips
The DOWELL set is built for a renovation, not for a single cut. Three frames plus eight extra blades mean you can move from half-inch copper to medium wall steel without stopping to buy anything.
The 12-inch frame mounts at 90 or 45 degrees using two pillars, with an adjustable knob for tension and quick blade changes. That flexibility covers straight cuts and flush trims on the same setup.
Every frame has soft rubber grips, which is unusual for a set at this level, and the frames are aluminum alloy. The whole package weighs about 0.94 kg, so it moves around a job site easily.
Blades are high carbon steel rather than bi-metal. Reviewers report inconsistent blade quality plus more flex in the frames under load, so it suits general renovation more than hard steel.
Where it works best?
Perfect for a whole-house remodel where pipe sizes keep changing, and for a garage or rental property that needs a complete general-purpose kit on hand.
Where it falls short?
If your work is mostly thick steel or cast iron, buy a bi-metal blade set to go with it and pick one higher-tension frame for the heavy cuts. The 6-inch frame is a finishing tool, not a workhorse.
12. ARES 70098 Adjustable Hacksaw – Best for Pipe in Tight Angles
- Four frame positions reach awkward pipe angles
- Blade sets to 270 degrees for offset access
- Heavy-duty tension nut holds tension
- Arc frame clears obstructions
- Fewer owner reviews than the rest
- Hi-carbon blade less durable than bi-metal
- Arc frame is not as rigid as an I-beam
Arc-shaped adjustable frame with four positions
Blade angle to 90, 180 or 270 degrees
Heavy-duty tensioning nut
12-inch hi-carbon steel blade
The ARES 70098 solves a specific problem: pipe that is welded or run in an orientation where a straight frame cannot reach. Its arc-shaped frame sets high, low, or facing either side, and the blade notches to 90, 180 or 270 degrees.
The 270 degree setting is the one that earns this frame a place. It lets the blade sit under a pipe or against a surface where a conventional frame would hit the obstruction before the blade reached the metal.
Heavy duty tensioning nut keeps the blade loaded, and the ergonomic handle has an end cap so it will not slip when your hand is wet or gloved. It carries a limited lifetime warranty.
The hi-carbon steel blade is less durable than bi-metal, and the arc frame is not as rigid as an I-beam under heavy load. Owner ratings are strong but based on fewer reviews than the rest of this list.
Where it works best?
Reach for it on retrofit jobs where the pipe is already fixed in place: cutting a riser, trimming a branch line, or getting at a section of pipe that a straight frame cannot approach.
Where it falls short?
For ordinary straight cuts, a solid I-beam frame is faster because it does not flex. Buy a bi-metal blade for heavy work and treat this as the specialty tool it is.
How to Choose a Hacksaw for Cutting Metal Pipe?
Frame tension is the single deciding spec. A blade only cuts straight if the frame holds it dead straight under load, so a solid metal or I-beam frame rated for high tension beats a tubular frame every time on steel pipe.
Adjustable frames let you swap blade lengths, which is handy if you own one saw and a drawer of blades. Fixed frames tension better, and that is the trade you want for metal.
Blade teeth per inch is the second decision. TPI means teeth per inch of blade, and the number controls how the cut behaves. Roughly 18 TPI bites into thick pipe fast, 24 TPI is the general-purpose metal default, and 32 TPI gives a smoother finish on thin wall and stainless.
Material to blade matching matters more than brand. For carbon and galvanized steel use bi-metal at 24 TPI. Cast iron wants a coarser tooth, around 18 TPI, to shed chips. Stainless is best at 32 TPI with a slow, steady stroke, and copper or brass cut easily with a fine bi-metal blade. Aluminum and PVC want a coarser tooth so the teeth do not clog.
Pipe diameter sets the frame size. A mini frame handles up to about 1 inch, a 10-inch frame covers roughly 1 to 2 inch pipe, and a 12-inch frame with a deeper throat takes 2 to 4 inch pipe. Past that, use a larger saw or a power tool.
Handle shape is the last thing to weigh. A rubberized or over-molded grip stays secure with a wet or gloved hand, and for pipe work that grip happens constantly. A bare aluminum handle is fine for a few cuts and tiring for an afternoon.
How to Get a Straight, Burr-Free Cut in Metal Pipe?
Most crooked cuts happen because the pipe moved, not because the saw was wrong. Work through these steps in order.
First, clamp the pipe in a pipe vise and tighten hard enough that it does not rotate. A wood vise with soft jaws works if you pad the jaws to avoid crushing the pipe.
Second, mark the cut line all the way around with a marker and a straightedge so you can see your progress on every side.
Third, score a starter notch with a file at the marked line on the side facing up. That notch gives the teeth a place to catch instead of skate.
Fourth, tighten the blade until it sings, then back it off slightly. If it squeaks during the cut, stop and tension it more.
Fifth, use long steady strokes with almost no downward pressure. The frame tension does the cutting, so pushing down just wears the blade and bends the cut.
Sixth, drip cutting oil onto the blade every few dozen strokes. It clears chips and keeps the teeth sharp for the whole pass.
Seventh, deburr the cut end with a hand file or a reamer before it goes back together. A small burr on the inside of a pipe catches fittings and wears them out.
When to Skip the Hacksaw?
For copper tubing, a tubing cutter gives a cleaner, faster cut with almost no effort. Plumbers on plumbing forums point to a mini tubing cutter when the tube is cut tight against a fitting.
For threaded steel pipe that will be re-threaded, a die and a pipe cutter leave the correct chamfer for the thread to seat. A hacksaw cut usually needs reaming before it will thread.
For repeated cuts or solid bar, power is the honest answer. If you are cutting the same diameter all afternoon, read our guide to the best metal cutting bandsaws and our picks for a metal cutting band saw for the machine shop.
If the pipe is heavy wall and you plan to thread or ream it, our best pipe threading machines guide covers the cases where cutting and threading belong in the same setup.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best hacksaw blade for cutting through metal pipes?
A 24 TPI bi-metal blade is the best general choice for metal pipe because the high-speed steel teeth stay sharp in hard material while the flexible spring steel body resists snapping. Drop to 18 TPI for thick wall or cast iron to cut faster, and move up to 32 TPI for thin wall and stainless when you want a smoother finish.
Can you use a hacksaw to cut metal pipe?
Yes. A hacksaw cuts steel, galvanized, cast iron, copper, brass and aluminum pipe when paired with a metal-rated bi-metal blade and a frame with enough tension to keep the blade straight. It is slow compared with a power saw, but it is the most controllable option in tight spaces where nothing else fits.
What type of hacksaw to cut metal?
Choose a solid metal or I-Beam frame with high blade tension, a 12-inch blade for general pipe, and 24 TPI bi-metal teeth. Add a coarse blade for thick stock and a fine blade for thin wall, and pick a frame with 90 and 180 degree blade positions so you can make flush cuts.
When cutting tubing with a hacksaw, use a blade with?
Use a fine-toothed bi-metal blade, roughly 24 to 32 TPI, for copper, brass and thin wall steel tubing. A coarser blade clogs on soft copper and leaves a ragged edge. Plumbers cutting tube tight against a fitting often prefer a mini tubing cutter, which is faster and leaves no burr.
Why does my hacksaw blade keep breaking?
Usually the blade is too fine for the job or the frame is tensioned beyond what the blade can carry. On hardened or thick stock, switch to a coarser tooth and check that the frame tension is not excessive. Blades also snap if you have been using a carbon steel blade on stainless for a long time, so replace it rather than pushing through.
Conclusion
The best hacksaws for cutting metal pipe are the ones whose frames hold tension under load. Our CRAFTSMAN 12-inch solid frame is the pick for general work, the Lenox HT50 is the choice when you want the blade doing the work, and the Lenox 975 mini handles the cuts a full frame cannot reach.
Match the blade to the material before you buy anything else. Start with 24 TPI bi-metal for steel, drop to 18 TPI for cast iron, and clamp the pipe properly. Get those three right and the cut comes out square in 2026 and every year after.