How Card Grading Works (March 2026) Ultimate Anime Card Guide

Updated by Sunny Kaushik
February 5, 2026
Gaming

If you’ve been collecting anime cards—whether it’s Pokémon, One Piece Card Game, Yu-Gi-Oh!, or Weiss Schwarz—you’ve probably seen those mysterious plastic slabs selling for astronomical prices. It makes you look at your own binder and wonder: “Is my collection gold dust or just cardboard?” That’s where card grading comes in.

I’ve spent years navigating the complex world of collectible trading cards, and I can tell you that grading isn’t just about encapsulating a card; it’s about authentication, preservation, and liquidity. In this comprehensive guide, I’m going to break down exactly how card grading works, specifically for anime cards, so you can decide if it’s right for your collection.

Here is a quick overview of the major players you need to know about before we dive deep:

Top Grading Companies Overview

Company	Known For	Scale	Popularity in Anime	Slab Style
PSA (Sports Card Guaranty)	Investment value & liquidity	1-10	Extremely High (King of Pokémon)	White label, blue flip
BGS (Beckett Grading Service)	Condition scrutiny & sub-grades	1-10 (Pristine 10)	High (Yu-Gi-Oh & Vintage)	Black label, silver flip
CGC (Certified Guaranty Co.)	Value & faster turnaround	1-10	Rapidly Growing	Black label, yellow label

What is Card Grading?

At its core, card grading is the process of sending a raw card to a third-party service to verify its authenticity and evaluate its physical condition. Once assessed, the card is assigned a numerical grade, sealed in a tamper-evident plastic holder (often called a “slab” or “sonic sealed case”), and returned to you.

But why do people do it? I’ve found that grading serves three main purposes:

Protection: Once slabbed, the card is safe from water, dust, and bending.
Authentication: It proves the card isn’t a fake, which is rampant in high-value anime cards.
Standardization: It creates a universal language for buyers and sellers. A “PSA 9” means the same thing to everyone, removing the subjectivity of “Near Mint” from a random eBay seller.

For anime cards specifically, grading has exploded. A raw Charizard First Edition might sell for $500, but a PSA 10 can fetch $10,000 or more. That gap is what drives collectors to the grading table.

The “Big Three” Grading Companies

While there are smaller services popping up, the industry is dominated by three main entities. Understanding the differences between them is crucial for your strategy.

1. PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)

PSA is currently the market leader, especially for Pokémon cards. Their slabs command the highest resale prices at auction. They use a simple 1-10 scale. In my experience, PSA is slightly more lenient on centering than Beckett but stricter on surface scratches. If your goal is pure investment value, PSA is usually the first choice.

2. Beckett Grading Services (BGS)

BGS is legendary for its thoroughness. Unlike PSA, they provide sub-grades for four categories: Centering, Corners, Edges, and Surface. A card with four 9.5 sub-grades receives a “Black Label” Pristine 10, which is arguably the hardest grade to achieve in the world. This makes BGS the preferred choice for high-end Yu-Gi-Oh! and modern One Piece collectors who care about technical perfection.

3. CGC (Certified Guaranty Company)

CGC is the new challenger making massive waves. Originally known for comics, they entered the card grading market aggressively. Their grading standards are comparable to PSA, but their fees are often lower, and their turnaround times are significantly faster. I’ve noticed a surge in CGC slabs for Flesh and Blood and Weiss Schwarz recently because collectors want their cards back faster to sell.

Understanding the Grading Scale (1-10)

All major companies generally use a 10-point scale, but the terminology varies slightly. Here is the breakdown you need to memorize:

10 (Gem Mint / Pristine): A perfect card. No printing flaws, perfectly centered, sharp corners. These are rare.
9 (Mint): Virtually perfect. A microscopic speck of print or a factory flaw might keep it from a 10, but it looks perfect to the naked eye.
8 (Near Mint-Mint): A strong card with minor flaws visible under magnification.
7 (Near Mint): Visible minor surface wear or slight centering issues.
6 (Excellent-Mint): Noticeable surface wear or very slight corner whitening.
5 (Excellent): Obvious wear but not abused.
4 – 1 (Very Good to Poor): Significant wear, creasing, or damage.

Pro Tip: In the anime card world, the jump in value from a PSA 8 to a PSA 9 is significant, but the jump from a PSA 9 to a PSA 10 is exponential. Always aim for 9s and 10s when submitting, as lower grades often don’t recoup the grading fees.

The 4 Pillars of Card Condition

When graders look at your card, they are scrutinizing four specific areas. I recommend grabbing a magnifying glass or jeweler’s loupe before you submit to check these yourself.

1. Centering

Centering is often the dealbreaker for a Gem Mint 10.

Front: The border should be equal on all sides.
Back: For Pokémon, the back design must be perfectly centered. Many vintage cards suffer from “miscut” backs.
PSA Tolerance: A card can be 55/45 to 60/40 and still get a 9. For a 10, it usually needs to be 55/45 or better on both sides.

2. Corners

This is about sharpness. Even the slightest ding from dropping the card on a table can kill a 10 grade. I always use “Card Savers” (semi-rigid holders) immediately after pulling a card to prevent corner dings.

3. Edges

Graders look for “chipping” along the black or white borders. This is common in cards like Yu-Gi-Oh! which have silver or gold borders that chip easily. If your card has edge chipping, it will likely land in the 7 or 8 range.

4. Surface

This is the biggest enemy of modern holographic cards. Surface issues include:

Scratches on the holofoil.
“Clouding” or minor print lines.
Dents or indentations.
Whitening on the back of the card.

For One Piece and Dragon Ball Super cards which have heavy texture, surface scratches are the #1 reason cards fail to get a 10.

How to Submit Your Anime Cards: Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to send your cards in? Here is the exact process I follow to ensure my cards come back safely.

Prerequisites

Before you start, you need to determine the Declared Value of your card. Be honest. If you insure a $500 card for $10 to save on fees, and it gets lost, you will only get $10 back. Grading fees are tiered based on this value.

Step 1: Select Your Cards (The “Eye Test”)

Don’t grade everything. Grading costs money (usually $15 – $50+ per card minimum).

Do Submit: Chase cards, rares, secret rares, cards with high resale value.
Don’t Submit: Commons, bulk rares, or cards with visible damage.

Step 2: Preparation (The Card Saver)

Place your card in a “Card Saver 1” (the thin semi-rigid plastic holder). Do NOT use a top-loader or magnetic holder for grading submission. PSA and BGS will reject the package if the cards are in hard cases because they have to cut them out, which damages the card.

Step 3: Order Submission

Go to the company’s website (e.g., PSAcard.com or CGCcards.com).

Create an account.
Select “Start Submission.”
Choose your “Service Level” (Value, Economy, Regular, Express). Faster service costs more.
Enter your card details.

Step 4: Packing

This is where most people mess up.

Team Bags: Put each card (in its Card Saver) into a soft “team bag.”
The Stack: Stack your cards flat. Do not stand them up vertically.
Cardboard: Use two pieces of stiff cardboard slightly larger than your cards. Sandwich the card stack between them.
Tape: Tape the cardboard sandwich securely so the cards cannot slide out.
Box: Place the cardboard sandwich in a sturdy box with plenty of padding (bubble wrap). Shake the box; if nothing moves, you are good to go.

Step 5: Shipping and Tracking

Ship via UPS or FedEx (USPS is often rejected or higher risk for these services). Ensure you have tracking. Keep your receipt!

Costs and Turnaround Times in March 2026

One of the most common questions I get is, “How long will it take?” and “How much will it cost?” While these fluctuate based on demand, here is a general estimate for the current market:

Estimated Grading Costs (Per Card)

Service Level	Declared Value	Estimated Cost	Turnaround Time (Est.)
Economy / Value	Under $500	$18 – $30	30 – 60 Days
Regular	Under $1,000	$35 – $50	20 – 30 Days
Express	Under $2,500	$75 – $100	5 – 10 Days
Walk-Through / Super	Any Value	$150+	1 – 3 Days

Note: These prices do not include shipping to the company or return shipping fees. PSA also requires membership fees ($99/year) for most service levels, whereas CGC currently does not require a membership.

Is It Worth It?

Let’s look at the math. Say you have a Pokémon Umbreon VMAX Alt Art.

Raw Price: $200.
Grading Cost: $30 (Service) + $15 (Shipping) = $45 total.
PSA 9 Price: $250 (Break-even/Minor loss).
PSA 10 Price: $600+ (Huge profit).

My Rule of Thumb: Only grade a card if the cost of grading is less than 20% of the potential value of the card in a Gem Mint 10 grade. If the card is only worth $50 raw, don’t grade it. You’ll lose money.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

I’ve made plenty of mistakes learning this hobby. Here are the ones you should avoid at all costs:

Touching the Surface: Never touch the face of the card. The oils on your fingers leave fingerprints that can lower the grade. Hold the card by the edges.
Poor Packing: I once had a package returned because the cards shifted during shipping. The cards slid out of the cardboard and got bent. Always tape the cardboard sandwich tight.
Grading “Bulk” Rares: Sending in a $5 card hoping it becomes a “10” to sell for $20 is a gamble you will usually lose. The fees often eat the profit margin on low-tier cards.
Ignoring “Factory Flaws”: Anime cards often have print lines or surface dimples from the manufacturer straight out of the pack. These are not considered damage, but they do prevent a Gem Mint 10. Look closely before submitting.

Pro Strategies for Anime Collectors

If you want to take your grading game to the next level, here are some advanced insights I’ve picked up:

The “Bulk Submission” Discount: If you have 50+ cards to grade, wait until you have enough to qualify for a bulk submission rate (usually cheaper per card).
Cross-Grading: If you bought a card that is already graded by a lower-tier company (like GMA or MNT), you can send it to PSA or BGS to “cross-grade.” They will crack it out and re-grade it. Warning: If the grade drops (e.g., it was a 9.5 and becomes a 9), you are stuck with the new grade.
The “Pop Report”: Before buying expensive raw cards to grade, check the PSA Population Report. If there are already 5,000 PSA 10s of that card, the value might not go up much. If there are only 2, a PSA 10 could be a goldmine.
Clean Your Cards? No. Never use chemicals or magic erasers on your cards. Graders are experts and can detect “cleaning” or “alteration.” Altered cards get labelled “Authentic Altered,” which destroys the value.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does grading a card guarantee it gets a 10?

No. In fact, getting a 10 is very difficult. Even cards that look perfect to the naked eye often get an 8 or 9 due to microscopic print lines or centering issues. Always prepare yourself for a lower grade.

Can I grade cards that are not in English?

Yes! PSA, BGS, and CGC all grade Japanese, Korean, and other language cards. In fact, Japanese Pokémon cards often sell for more than their English counterparts in high grades.

What is a “Qualified” grade?

Sometimes, a card has a major issue that normally would give it a low grade, but the card is otherwise perfect. PSA might issue a “Qualified” grade (e.g., “QA 9”). This means the card is a 9, but has a qualifier like “OC” (Off Center). These sell for significantly less than a clean 9.

How do I remove a card from a slab?

It is called “cracking.” You carefully use a hammer and a screwdriver or a specialized slab cracking tool to break the plastic along the seam. Warning: Do this only if you are comfortable risking damage to the card. The plastic is sharp and can cut you or the card if you slip.

Is BGS “Black Label” better than PSA 10?

A BGS Black Label (Pristine 10) is technically a stricter grade than a PSA 10 because it requires perfect 10 subgrades in all four categories. Therefore, BGS Black Labels often sell for more than PSA 10s for the same card.

Conclusion

Card grading in the anime hobby is more than just a trend; it’s a fundamental part of the market now. Whether you are looking to protect your favorite One Piece captain or invest in a vintage Charizard, understanding how the grading process works gives you a massive advantage.

Remember, the key to success is strict quality control. Be your own harshest critic before you send the card in. If you see a scratch, a dinged corner, or a wavy border, the graders will see it too—and they will grade it accordingly.

Start small, pick your service level wisely, and most importantly, enjoy the process. There is nothing quite like the feeling of cracking open a package and seeing your card preserved forever in a perfect Gem Mint slab.